Eat like a local in early spring

2023-02-09

broad beans

marjoram

knife fish

bamboo shoots Photo provided to Hangzhoufeel

Delicacies

By Jin Yingying

The Beginning of Spring(立春), which fell on Feb 4 this year, is considered an important time in agriculture reminding farmers to get ready for planting.

The Year of the Rabbit is called the "double-spring year" because this lunar year includes two "Beginning of Spring" days, with one at the beginning and one at the end of the year. It is said to be a sign of good fortune and a great time to get married.

Grand ceremonies are held in some places in China to pray for a bountiful harvest in the coming year. Various food customs also emerge, such as eating spring pancakes, radishes, and seasonal vegetables, hence the saying "have a bite of the spring" virtually means to savor spring with food.

Although it's spring time in Hangzhou, food materials have appeared in some Hangzhou cuisine restaurants and farmer's markets ahead of the season where seasonal ingredients such as knife fish, tender Chinese toon leaves, and Indian asters can be found.

Knife fish

Knife fish, with the reputation of the "first seafood in spring", is known for its tender flesh and unique texture that can be served simply by steaming. The cooking of knife fish requires much patience as this kind of fish has a lot of bones. This year, the knife fish dish is served at Haixiaoxian restaurant several days earlier than in the last year. The knife fish wontons made of fish filet and pork, are an epitome of the spring as well.

Chinese toons

The tender sprouts of Chinese toons, also a typical food material in spring, are served in some Hangzhou cuisine restaurants. They don't smell as strong as the local toons and thus are widely accepted. Locals like to stir-fry the tender toon leaves with eggs. Some chefs like to mix them with Sichuan peppercorns as a spice.

Dark sleepers

The dark sleeper, a species of freshwater sleeper native to China, Japan and Korea – is among Hangzhou's most popular spring delicacies. Hangzhou locals often cook it with bamboo shoots or pickles.

Although you can find this fish all year round, it tastes the best in spring when they swim from the water bottom mud to grassy area. They are also a signal of the new spring. The most "extravagant" dish made of dark sleeper is the "bean soup with pickles". The so-called "bean" is the cheek meat of dark sleepers.

Bamboo shoots

Bamboo shoots are another typical seasonal food material. Bamboo shoots are the perfect ingredients for a tasty stew. Known for their mild flavor and crunchy texture, they are a popular spring vegetable in Hangzhou, where people like to stew them with salty pork. Pian'erchuan, or the Hangzhou-style noodles, is an authentic local way to sample them.

Potherbs

Potherbs such as marjoram and shepherd's purse, which are popular among locals, are now hitting the market in Hangzhou. They can be found easily in the rural areas of Yuhang district. Locals like to boil marjoram and mix it with bamboo shoot cubes and dried tofu. The shepherd's purses are often mixed with pork and made into dumpling fillings.